Style Icons at the Lempertz Jewellery and Watches Auction

The catalogue for the Jewellery and Watches auction on 19th May invites you on a colourful journey through the ages. Historical pieces meet the aesthetic innovations of the early 20th century, unique works by individual artists and high-quality gemstone jewellery from the post-war period. This exceptional selection is rounded off by a range of fine designer watches and vintage bags from Hermès.

The catalogue cover features an Art Nouveau gem from the Paris Salon, which has been published numerous times in the literature and demonstrates the various techniques of enamel art with technical perfection. The term for this era derives from the name of the gallery ‘Maison/Hôtel de L’Art Nouveau S. Bing’, which Samuel Bing, of German origin, founded in Paris in 1895. His son Marcel created this pendant for the gallery at the end of the 19th century, depicting a swan on a lake (estimated price €25,000 to €30,000).

Around the same time, three exquisite accessories were created at the Fabergé court goldsmith’s workshop in St Petersburg: A luxurious gold-enamel twist-top pencil bearing the maker's mark of Henrik Wigström is offered with an estimate of €4,000 to €6,000. Eduard Wilhelm Schramm created a repoussé gold box, the lid of which is adorned with a violet motif made of sapphire cabochons and diamonds (estimated price €6,000 to €8,000). Also attributed to the Fabergé workshop is a highly detailed and expressively designed small figurine of a standing pig in chalcedony, which is estimated at between €8,000 and €10,000.

Two exquisite diamond pieces epitomise the glamour of the Belle Époque: A necklace in a classic riviera style featuring 54 old-cut diamonds set in silver (totalling 42.41 ct), arranged in sizes ranging from approx. 0.30 ct to approx. 2.77 ct, is clearly rooted in the late 19th century (estimated price €60,000 to €80,000). In contrast, the necklace with a bow pendant, created just a decade later, already displays the technical and stylistic innovations of the early 20th century. The platinum is finely open-worked in the style of bobbin lace and features a three-carat diamond in a transitional cut (estimated price €20,000 to €25,000). 

Natural coloured gemstones are enjoying growing demand on the market. The fine Burmese ruby in a diamond-set cluster ring captivates with its intense, saturated red; according to an accompanying up-to-date SSEF report, it shows no signs of heat treatment (estimated price €25,000–35,000). Five pieces from a high-carat jewellery set featuring diamonds and natural Ceylon sapphires in vibrant pastel colours originate from the estate of Rhineland nobility. The rivièra-style necklace, set with 60 brilliant- and navette-cut diamonds and 15 Ceylon sapphires, is estimated at between €80,000 and €100,000.

The designer watches section features, among other items, two men’s models from Audemars Piguet: A 2007 ‘Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph’ in 18 k rose gold with an elegant grey ‘Méga Tapisserie’ dial (estimated price €20,000 to €30,000) and a “Royal Oak” from 2002 in 18 k yellow gold with a white “Grande Tapisserie” dial, which is offered together with the original wooden box and papers at an estimated price of €20,000 to €30,000.

The collection is rounded off by four vintage handbags from the Parisian fashion house Hermès.  Among their most iconic designs is the so-called ‘Kelly Bag’, made famous by Grace Kelly, later Princess Grazia Patricia of Monaco. Three versions of this model, produced between 1945 and 1970, will go under the hammer with starting prices ranging from €4,000 to €10,000.

Three Hermès Kelly Bags will be sold in Cologne on 19th May:

Jan Bykowski
Press and PR
bykowski@lempertz.com
Tel. 0049 (0)221 925729 -57